Pattern » The Clapotis Cap

This hat is based on Clapotis by Kate Gilbert in Knitty Fall 2004. When I was working on that scarf, I thought about how to make a matching hat. After a few prototypes to work out my ideas, I came up with the hat you see here.

Although the repeat is shorter than for the scarf, making the hat is good practice for making the scarf. Most people are finding that the scarf pattern uses more yarn than is called for, so if you buy an extra ball of yarn, this hat is a good use for the leftovers. And if you make it first, you can make the scarf to use whatever is left.

The pattern as written here follows the Knitty pattern in calling for simple purl stitches on the odd-numbered rows. In the hats shown here, the purl side was worked to include twisted stitches on either side of stitches marked for dropping. Instructions for doing that and other useful tips that apply to both this hat and the Clapotis scarf can be found with my project notes for the scarf.

At the bottom of the pattern are variations for increasing the size and for making the hat inverted. Have fun and please e-mail me if you have any questions (or find any errors!). And I would love to see photos of your finished caps!

Pattern

Side Section 1: (set-up rows)
CO 2 sts
Row 1: P1, pfb
Row 2: Sl 1, k1, pm, yo, kfb
Row 3 and all odd numbered rows: Sl1, p to last st, pfb
Row 4: Sl1, k1, k tbl, (m) k1, k tbl, kfb
Row 6: Sl1, k2, k tbl, (m) k1, k tbl, k1, kfb
Row 8: Sl1, k3, k tbl, (m) k1, k tbl, k2, kfb
Row 10: Sl1, k1, pm, yo, k2tog, k1, k tbl, (m) k1, k tbl, k1, ssk, pm, yo, kfb
13 stitches on needle

Side Section 2: (increase rows)
Row 1 and all odd-numbered rows: Sl1, p to last st, pfb
Row 2: Sl1, k1, k tbl, [(m) k1, k tbl, k1, k tbl] to last marker, (m) k1, k tbl, kfb.
Row 4: Sl1, k2, k tbl, [(m) k1, k tbl, k1, k tbl] to last marker, (m) k, k tbl, k1, kfb.
Row 6: Sl1, k3, k tbl, [(m) k1, k tbl, k1, k tbl] to last marker, (m) k1, k tbl, k2, kfb.
Row 8: Sl1, k1, pm, yo, k2tog, k1, k tbl, [(m) k1, k tbl, k1, ktbl] to last marker, (m) k1, k tbl, k1, ssk, pm, yo, kfb.
Repeat rows 1-8 2 times more, 37 stitches on needle
Repeat rows 1-4 once, 41 stitches

Side Section 3: (straight rows)
Row 1 and all odd-numbered rows: Sl1, p to last 2 sts, p2tog
Row 2: P1, k1, k tbl, [(m) k1, k tbl, k1, k tbl] to last marker, (m) k1, k tbl, k2, kfb
Row 4: P1, k tbl, [(m) k1, k tbl, k1, k tbl] to last marker, (m) k1, k tbl, k1, ssk, pm, yo, kfb
Row 6: P1, remove marker, let drop stitch run a few rows, pick up top bar and knit bar tbl, k tbl, k1, k tbl, [(m) k1, k tbl, k1, k tbl] to last marker, (m) k1, ktbl, kfb
Row 8: P1, k2, k tbl, [(m) k1, k tbl, k1, k tbl] to last marker, (m) k1, ktbl, k1, kfb
Repeat rows 1-8 6 times more (7 dropped stitches total)

Side Section 4: (decrease rows)
Row 1 and all odd-numbered rows: k1, p to last 2 sts, p2tog
Row 2: P1, k1, k tbl, [(m) k1, k tbl, k1, k tbl] to last marker, (m) k1, k tbl, k1, ssk
Row 4: P1, k tbl, [(m) k1, k tbl, k1, k tbl] to last marker, (m) k1, k tbl, ssk
Row 6: P1, remove marker, let stitch drop, pick up bar and k bar tbl, k tbl, k1, k tbl, [(m) k1, k tbl, k1, k tbl] to last marker, rem marker, drop stitch, pick up bar and knit bar tbl, ssk
Row 8: P1, k2, k tbl, [(m) k1, k tbl, k1, k tbl] to last marker, (m) k1, k tbl, k2, ssk
Repeat 4 times, 9 sts and 1 marker remain

Side Section 5: final rows
Row 1 and odd numbered rows: k1, p to last 2 sts, p2tog
Row 2: p1, k1, k tbl, (m) k1, k tbl, k1, ssk
Row 4: p1, k tbl, (m) k1, k tbl, ssk
Row 6: p1, rem marker, drop st (do not form a new stitch this time), ssk
Row 7 (last row): p2tog
Leave long tail, break yarn and draw through loop of last stitch.

Use long tail to sew finished end to beginning end in a ring. With a little care, you can match up the ribs and ladders for a minimal seam. Weave in ends.


Top:
With right (knit) side facing, pick up 72 stitches around one side of the ring. I pick up one stitch at the top of every stitch in the 3-stitch ribs and 3 stitches across the ladder sections.
Round 1: pm and knit all stitches tbl (so they twist tight). When you come back to the marker, remove it and knit a few more stitches so that the next stitch will be the 3rd stitch across the end of a rib, pm. (This will make the pinwheel on the top of the cap appear to grow out of the edges of the ribs)
Round 2: [ssk, k 10] around, 66 stitches
Round 3: knit around
Round 4: [ssk, k 9] around, 60 stitches
Round 5: knit around
Round 6: [ssk, k 8] around, 54 sts
Round 7: knit around
Round 8: [ssk, k 7] around, 48 sts
Round 9: [ssk, k 6] around, 42 sts
Round 10: [ssk, k 5] around, 36 sts
Round 11: [ssk, k 4] around, 30 sts
Round 12: [ssk, k 3] around, 24 sts
Round 13: [ssk, k 2] around, 18 sts
Round 14: [ssk, k 1] around, 12 sts
Round 15: ssk around, 6 sts

Cut long tail and use yarn needle to pull it through all remaining sts, repeat for good measure, weave in tail.

No blocking is necessary. You want the hat to retain the stretchiness of the ladders for a close fit.

Click to see more pictures!

Variations

Increasing the size:
Adding additional repeats in Section 3 will increase the diameter of the cap by about 1.5 inches per repeat. When you work the Top section, you will need to pick up an additional 6 stitches per additional repeat. And you will work an additional Top round for each extra 6 stitches, increasing the number of stitches between the SSKs by one stitch for each extra round.

Inverted hat:
Sew seam so the clean side is the purl side. Pick up stitches for top with right side facing and work as described above. Wear hat inverted, roll brim.