Pattern » Whirlygig Tulip Hat
This hat developed because I was trying to make companion to the Whirlygig Scarf that I designed by accident. I loved the yarn I was using for the prototype and wanted to see if I could make a hat the did justice to the chevron pattern.
Of course, I think the hat now stands on its own. In fact, it may be even better.
It’s a lot of fun with handpainted or variegated yarns. It also does well with stripes to finish off random balls of yarn, because the stripes make zigzags (photos coming soon).
When it’s finished, it sort of looks like you’re wearing a tulip on your head, upside down. I’m working on some options to the top to add some leaves. A tassle is another option for finishing it off. To match the tassles on the Whirlygig Scarf.
Doing the increases and decreases as I’ve designated them is key to getting the desired effect. Use the descriptions below as reference. Don’t worry that they look complicated. After a few rounds, it starts to become obvious where you need to place them.
Update (4/8/2006): I added a bit to the instructions for Row 2.
Cast on 130 stitches. Being careful not to twist, join in round. Repeat sections in square brackets as possible until next marker.
Round 1: Knit around. Place marker at join.
Round 2 (even rounds): IncrL, [K5, CDD, K5, CDI]*, K5, CDD, K5, IncrR
Round 3 (odd rounds): K6, [slip 1 purlwise, K12]*, slip 1 purlwise, K6
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until hat measures 6 inches from points, ending with Round 3.
Note, the shaping instructions seem a little fussy, but they result in the neat star pattern on the top of the hat instead of a spiral.
Change to DPNs, 2 circs, Magic Loop as you desire. Divide stitches such that breaks between needles fall in the middle of CDIs. That way, you’ll never have to work a decrease across needles.
Round 1: IncrL, [K5, CDD, K5, CDI]*, K5, CDD, K5, IncrR (130 sts rem)
Round 2: K5 [CDD, K10]*, CDD, K5 (110 sts rem)
Round 3: IncrL, [K4, CDD, K4, CDI]*, K4, CDD, K4, IncrR
Round 4: K4 [CDD, K8]*, CDD, K4 (90 sts rem)
Round 5: IncrL, [K3, CDD, K3, CDI]*, K3, CDD, K3, IncrR
Round 6: K3 [CDD, K6]*, CDD, K3 (70 sts rem)
Round 7: IncrL, [K2, CDD, K2, CDI]*, K2, CDD, K2, IncrR
Round 8: K2 [CDD, K4]*, CDD, K2 (50 sts rem)
Round 9: IncrL, [K1, CDD, K1, CDI]*, K1, CDD, K2, IncrR
Round 10: K1, [CDD, K7]*, CDD, K6 (40 sts rem)
Round 11: K4, [CDD, K5]*, CDD, K1 (30 sts rem)
Round 12: [CDD, K3]* (20 sts rem)
Round 13: [K1, CDD]* (10 sts rem)
Cut yarn, run through all stitches on needle twice and fasten down. Weave in cast-on tail. Block hat, pinning points out to make them distinct and fight curling.
Increase Right (IncrR)
Increase by knitting into the stitch below the one on the left needle.
In the image below, the row of blue stitches is the row below the row on the left needle:
Insert needle into the stitch below:
Pull through a loop:
Increase Left (IncrL)
Increase by knitting into the stitch 2 stitches below the stitch on the right needle.
In the image below, the row of blue stitches is the row 2 rows below the row on the right needle:
Pick up with left needle and knit into it:
Centered Double Increase (CDI)
IncrR immediately followed by IncrL.
When performed together, the effect looks like the stitches in that row are slightly elongated.
This is the result on the sample I used above. Note the increases are placed directly in the center:
On a long piece, like the scarf, the increases will continually be placed on the previous right-side row, and taken together, will look like a chain running up the middle. In this swatch, I knit all the right-side rows in white and the wrong-side rows in blue. The CDIs caused the white chain up the center.
Centered Double Decrease (CDD)
The goal of this stitch is to make a double decrease with the middle stitch ending up on top. When executed this way, it will mirror the chains created by the CDIs. It also encourages the sides to fold in along the center chain.
Close-up of the top: