Project Notes » Zig Zag Sweater

Overview

I went on a long quest to find the right yarn for this sweater. The yarn called for in the pattern is a cashmere blend, and it’s doubled. That translates to “not in the budget”. I did buy a ball to see how it worked up and it is scrumptious, yummy yarn. Maybe I’ll make some gloves out of it.

Working this in the Wool Cotton, not doubled, makes for a somewhat lighter sweater. I think it will be perfect for spring, which is about when I should finish it.

So far, I’ve finished the body. I did short-row shaping for the shoulders and neckline. I did a 3-needle bind off to join the shoulders. I did pick up the neck stitches and knit the whole neckline. But when trying to figure out how to bind it off, I noticed a dropped stitch running down the front. I was able to pick it up and save it, but I had to rip out the whole neck. And I noticed a little looseness in some of the front stitches around the neckline. So then I had to rip back to Chart B and redo it. I finished the new neckline and started the sleeves and then got distracted by other things and this project sat stalled for months and months.

I recently picked it up (Jan 2006) and have almost finished the sleeves. I finished one and then I noticed a misplaced eyelet about 20 rows down. So I had to spend a couple of evenings ripping that out and fixing it. Then I noticed that I had a couple of misplaced eyelets in the other one. So I ripped it out and reknit it.

Finally, I got down to the business of assembling it. In the many months since I last put it down, my gauge tightened a bit. Despite that, the sleeves set in nicely. Except that I put one in inside out! I fixed that and now it’s blocking.

There were a bunch of other modifications that I made in and around Chart B (the upper back pattern). I’ve detailed those below.

Errata, Modifications, and Hints

This section contains both corrections to the pattern and describes some modifications I made to the pattern. My modifications are called out as such.

  • A useful thing is to make yourself some printable copies of the pattern charts. They fall over page breaks for me when I print the pattern webpage. To do this, save each pattern image to your computer separately (usually right-clicking the image will give you a menu with that option). Then open each image file and print it separately.
  • The measurements in the pattern are for post-blocking despite what it says in the introduction. So if it says to work for 15 inches, it means 15 inches post-blocking. Be careful about pattern measurements and make sure to know your post-blocking gauge. Whether it’s due to the yarn or the lacy quality of the pattern, my gauge swatch got bigger when I washed it. Yes, if your swatch grows, you’ll have to do a little math to figure out how long your pre-blocked piece should be. But if you only follow the pattern and don’t check your post-blocking gauge, the sweater and sleeves may be too long.
  • [Modification]: On the last row of the Back before the “Begin Upper Body Pattern” section, when it said to p2tog the middle two stitches in the cable columns, I k2tog them. This creates a purl bump the right side of the sweater that I found a little more pleasing between the ends of the two cables.
  • The instructions for Back have you end with a WS row before beginning Chart B. Chart B begins with a WS row. So I added one knit row before Chart B. This provides a nice offset to the two rows of reverse stockinette at the bottom of Chart B.
  • [Modification]:The symbol

    calls for a 2-stitch decrease. It is described in such a way that it puts the center stitch on the top. However, it appears in a line of right slanting decreases that continue on the row above it. I thought this was visually jarring, so I changed the decrease method. My method for the whole stitch is: SSK, transfer this loop back to left needle, slip 2nd stitch on left needle over it, slip (as to purl) back to right needle. This causes the left-most stitch to end on top, with this right-most stitch below it, and the middle stitch on the bottom. Take care not to turn the stitch during the transfers and you won’t get a twisted stitch.


Useful references:

Bogie: Has completed this sweater and has a page of project notes.


Photos

Pre-blocking bath:

One sleeve attached:

In pieces:

Repairing a misplaced eyelet in one sleeve (before):

(during):

(after):

Sleeves at last check:

Not much more than cuffs:

Finished Neckline:

Frogging back the shoulders:

From the front. Shoulders seamed, waiting for a neck:

The back worked up to just before the shoulder shaping: